ZET kayaks is introducing a next generation kayak for 2015. After a lot of development and testing, we have come up with a kayak every active paddler will appreciate. We believe the new TORO will find supporters across all paddling categories. Watch Zach Shelly testing the new ZET Cross down the Little White Salmon river. This entry was posted in Whitewater reviews and tagged cross, little white salmon, test, zach shelly, zet kayaks. I have a buddy has a toro timecutter 42inch. He is a easy 300 pounds. Has been using it cutting foreclosed homes. Hydros work as good as they did in 2006. I have a 2007 toro 48 inch just got it a couple weeks ago. Very strong hydros pulls me up any hill. Whitewater reviews ZET CROSS Test – Zach Shelly on the Little White Salmon. Watch Zach Shelly testing the new ZET Cross down the Little White Salmon river. This entry was posted in Whitewater reviews and tagged cross, little white salmon, test, zach shelly, zet kayaks. I managed to get in a Zet Toro Demo from the really helpful guys at Desperate Measures, and I did quite enjoy it! Zet Kayaks Cross - Initial Review - Duration: 7:16. Alex Barham 2,855 views.
ZET kayaks presents the Toro, a new generation kayak. Long development and testing have resulted in a kayak that every active kayaker will be excited about. The Toro is not specific to only racing or expeditions but is aimed at all categories of paddlers, from serious whitewater racers to beginners in a local kayak club. The Toro’s progressive bow gives it a racing disposition, a stable stern and innovative hull keep it stable and maneuverable. This boat is incredibly easy to steer and keep on line. The Toro is a kayak designed for all paddlers who want to enjoy the river in every aspect.
The outfitting is simple, adjustable, robust, and comfortable. As a result the paddler is protected from big impacts and the boat is extremely light considering its large size.
Through the use of “Zelezny Technology” Zet have made the Toro both stronger and lighter than other kayaks. Other advantages of Zet Kayaks include a 2 year warranty and: Calzone casino bonus.
• Minimum number of bolts and holes in the kayak
• Unique foam holder
Zet Toro Review
• Light and functional seat made from a 'hybrid material' New casinos in louisiana. Golden nugget online casino customer service number.
• Stable hull
• Original and progressive design
Zet Toro Reviews
Design input from some of the world's best paddlers
Hello, after several years of using this site for it's great info I thought I might be able to contribute somewhat. Mods if you hate the post for some reason, move/delete or whatever you feel is fair. Back in 2012 I bought a still new 2011 Hustler Sport 48'. Now that the warranty is up and its near an estimated 100hrs I decided to tackle the hydro service. Our subject:
Researching the hydros I definitely wish I had went with something more substantial, especially considering the price of this years 2800 equipped Raptor SD .. such is life. All the more reason for consistent maintenance I suppose. I found various accounts on the web of others servicing these 'sealed units'. Others saying leave them be. Even the service manual states: 'This transaxle is factory filled, sealed and does not require oil maintenance. However, in the event of oil contamination or degradation, oil addition or change may alleviate certain performance problems. ' So, as you may have found they are serviceable via the fill/drain port on the top of the unit. If you have decided to service your hydros rather than cross your fingers then the first thing you should do is visit the Hydro-Gear website and use the 'Identifying Your Product' page to confirm which model of hydro your unit uses. http://www.hydro-gear.com/Main/service/yourproduct Using the tag on your hydro unit.
Then you can download the service and repair manual for your model. Honestly the manual is likely all you'll need, its plenty thorough and easy to follow. But, if you're on the fence about performing this service due to the required removal of the transaxle then maybe the rest of this post will help you decide whether this is a job for you or your local repair shop. What we're looking at to start with
So, it's not that bad. I started by removing the 10mm bolts holding the fans onto the input pulleys. Then remove the tensioner spring, I just used vise grips. I just slipped the belt out of the way and didn't bother removing it. Next, linkages. There are three linkages per unit. A control linkage which I removed at the hydro arm using via the 1/2' nut. A bypass linkage which only uses a small cotter pin. And a brake linkage which uses a cotter pin up front and a 7/16' nut at the brake arm *note the amount of threads extending past the nut so that you can replace it exactly and avoid multiple adjustments. I taped some of the linkages up out of harms way rather than remove them entirely. Bolts. There are 4 holding each unit in place with 1/2' nuts. I lifted the mower, broke the nuts free, then set it back down to remove them completely. Then, I slowly lifter the chassis off the hydro units with a hoist. I left the wheels and reinforcement plate attached to the hydros and slid everything out the side. I broke loose the fill plugs and left them in place while I positioned the whole assembly. I used a combination of wheel chalks and a bungee cord to suspend the units upside down over a pair of drain pans, then pulled the plugs to commence draining.
I left them there overnight to drain as much old fluid as possible. In my research I noted several accounts of the left side failing before the right. I emailed Hydro-Gear and they said there is no reason either side would fail more often than the other. When draining my old fluid I did notice the left side fluid was considerably darker then the right ..
So, what fluid to refill with? Hydro-Gear says: 'The fluids used in Hydro-Gear products have been carefully selected, and only equivalent, or better products should be substituted. Typically, an engine oil with a minimum rating of 9.0 cSt (55 SUS) at 230° F (110° C) and an API classification of SL is recommended. A 20W50 engine oil has been selected for use by the factory and is recommended for normal operating procedures.' I read many online accounts of people having good results running Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic and would have ran this if it were available locally in the large jug. I ended up going with a jug of Quicksilver Synthetic 20w50 motorcycle oil. I emailed Hydro-Gear and they simply state 20w50 motor oil, pretty much as outlined in the manual and did not condone any particular brand or synthetic vs. conventional. Do your research and make your own decision here. Spend some time on the Bob's the oil guy site and its clear that Redline, Mobil 1, and Amsoil all top the charts regarding shear. Many also claimed their units ran smoother in colder temps with a lighter oil. Again, make your own decisions here. I chose to stick with Hydro-Gears 20w50 guideline. How much oil? The manual clearly covers this too. 'Fill the ZT-2100 and ZT-2200 (EZT®) so the oil level is .75-1.50 (19-38 mm) below the oil fill port. A volume of 53.3 fl. oz. to 55.9 fl. oz. should bring the the fluid to the correct level in the transaxle. Recheck the fluid level once the unit has been operated for approximately 1 minute. Purging will be required. Refer to the purging procedures on Page 12' So, flip them back over and fill them up. Clean off any residual oil on the units from draining and install them in the reverse order of removal.
I left the bolts hanging to aid in alignment when lowering the chassis onto the transaxle. *Note be very careful not to lower the chassis onto the pump pulleys. A spotter / helper would be very useful here. I used a small amount of blue Loctite on anything with threads. After buttoning everything up follow the purging instructions outlined in the manual. 'The following procedures should be performed with the vehicle drive wheels off the ground, then repeated under normal operating conditions. 1. With the bypass valve open and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 or 6 times), as air is purged from the unit, the oil level will drop. 2. With the bypass valve closed and the engine running, slowly move the directional control in both forward and reverse directions (5 to 6 times). Check the oil level, and add oil as required after stopping the engine. 3. It may be necessary to repeat Steps 1 and 2 until all the air is completely purged from the system. When the transaxle moves forward and reverse at normal speed purging is complete.' Issues - After purging and running the unit up and down the driveway for 1-2min I noticed two issues. First the mower wanted to creep forward with no lever input. This meant that opening the levers into the brake position caused the brake pawl to grind into place. So, I pulled the fill plug to check fluid level since it should drop after purging. Right side, fine. No change, 3/4' below port. Left side overflowed as I removed the plug, pushing out ~4oz of fluid. I then suctioned out enough to put it back to spec. I referred to the manual regarding the unwanted forward movement. I began the 'Return to Neutral Setting' adjustment procedure. But, where the diagram showed an adjustment screw my unit only has a threaded stud. At this point I made a call to Hydro-Gear. I was directed to Jeremy who was very polite and helpful. I asked about the overflow and he said its likely just trapped air or residual oil in the unit that caused it to overflow and since I returned it to spec it should be of little concern. The units have breather tubes that should prevent them from pushing oil through their seals. And regarding the return to neutral adjustment, my units simply do not have that screw and the adjustment is done with the linkage. Okay, so I followed basically the same adjustment procedure as in the manual. Only I made small adjustments to the linkage rather than the screw. Success. Two turns of the rod end on either side was all that was required to get the return to neutral dialed in. Shout out to Jeremy at Hydro-Gear And that's it. Spent the rest of the day mowing and the units worked great. Hopefully they'll continue to do so for years. If not I'll report back about how I shouldn't have let the magic out.